Revealed Rome

No (Fiscal) Receipt? No Party: How Tourists Can Help the Campaign Against Tax Evasion in Italy

Everyone knows that tax evasion is one of the biggest issues facing Italy's economy. But very few tourists to Italy know that they have the power to do something about it.

And should.

That's because tax evasion in Italy doesn't just happen in accountants' offices behind closed doors. It happens every time a product, meal, or coffee is sold. Why? Because Italian stores and restaurants have a book of "fiscal receipts" issued by the government—and legally, they need to give the customer a fiscal receipt (ricevuta fiscale) for each interaction. Each time they use a ricevuta fiscale, the government knows about the purchase... and the interaction is taxed.

Without issuing that ricevuta fiscale, it's like the interaction never happened. And, therefore, it's untaxed.

And so, guess what: You hardly ever see fiscal receipts in Italy. Especially if you're a tourist.

Restaurants and stores know that tourists have no idea what a fiscal receipt looks like versus a non-fiscal receipt. They also know that tourists have a tendency to think it's "cute" when their waiter does something like, say, scribble the total on the tablecloth or a napkin. Guess what? That's not a fiscal receipt. And that's not cute. It means that your meal isn't being taxed. It's going right into the owner's pockets, tax-free.

Weekend Trip to Verona (Maybe for Valentine's Day?)

Verona—an easy day trip from Venice, or a weekend trip from Rome—just happens to be one of the most romantic cities in Italy. And not just because Shakespeare set Romeo and Juliet there. It boasts everything from gorgeous scenery (hello, sunset over the River Adige) to atmospheric ruins, medieval palaces to what might just be the loveliest piazza in Italy.

Out today in the Guardian, here's my pick for 10 of the best hotels, restaurants, and activities in Verona.

By the way: Yes, you can get there easily from Rome. The fast train, which takes just 3 hours, costs 63 euros on Trenitalia's MINI fare or 70 for full-price. Valentine's Day escape, anyone?

 

Weekend Escape to Naples, for New York Magazine

My piece on Naples, Italy—including where to stay, eat, visit, and my suggestions for a seriously spooky "oddball day"—has gone live over at New York Magazine. I've always been a huge proponent of this incredible and much-misunderstood city, and it happens to make an easy (1:10 hrs on the fast train) day trip from Rome, so check it out.

Coming up soon: less self-promotional blog posts. I promise.

 

Saving on Italian Trains, in the New York Times

Taking the train in Italy anytime soon? Trenitalia has some great deals on right now. Find out what they are, and how to get 'em, at my first post for the New York Times' In Transit blog. (Photo courtesy of Trenitalia).

The Best Travel Rentals in Rome and Beyond

New York Magazine's article on the best short-term rentals for winter travel just went live, and I'm thrilled to say my contributions on Rome and the Valle d'Aosta are there, too.

Although I'm not going to lie: As temperatures finally start to dip here in Rome, places like Cartagena, Colombia and Culebra, Puerto Rico don't look too bad, either.

But do check the piece out. These kinds of short-term rentals are hot right now, and for good reason: You can enjoy all of the comforts of home, and a killer location, for way cheaper than a hotel. And if you go through a site like AirBnB, it's pretty safe. Just stay away from Craigslist—that's where the scams abound!

Can't Get to Rome Right Now? How About to L.A.?

Whether it's the bad economy or the press of work, you might not be able to get to Rome or Pompeii right this second. But, if you're lucky enough to be in California -- or if you're heading there anytime soon -- then you can get the ancient Roman experience... in Malibu.

The Getty Villa, located on the border of Pacific Palisades and Malibu, is unlike any museum you've ever been to. First off, it's not a museum. It's an ancient Roman villa. Recreated.

Brainchild of oil tycoon (and art enthusiast) J. Paul Getty, the Getty Villa was designed to look like Herculaneum's once-sumptuous, and world-famous, Villa of the Papyri. While Getty died before getting to see his dream completed, it's hard to imagine that he wouldn't be happy with how it all turned out. Re-opened in 2006 after a 10-year restoration, the Getty Villa boasts 64 acres of gardens, fountains, colonnades, buildings, even an ancient theater that sits up to 450 people. Every detail was done with the utmost attempt at historical accuracy, from the classical bronze statues in the gardens to the colored columns and frescoed walls.

As for its collection? Well, it's pretty fantastic. The museum boasts 44,000 Greek, Roman, and Etruscan artifacts, including everything from paintings (rare to find even in Italy) to mummies, pottery to perfectly-preserved jewelry. Some of the finds rival anything I've seen in Europe, including at the Naples Archaeological Museum and the Istanbul Archaeological Museum.

I'll let the pictures do the talking.

Bracelet of gold, glass, emeralds, and sapphires, ancient Roman, 300-400 A.D.

Mummy portrait of a woman, Romano-Egyptian, 100-110 A.D.

From Rome to Puglia: Monopoli

Monopoli -- my third and final destination on my quick trip from Rome to Puglia -- just might have been my favorite.

Just a half an hour and €2.90 on the train from Bari, or 5 minutes and €1 from Polignano a Mare, where we were staying, Monopoli was a gem. Much bigger than Polignano, with 50,000 inhabitants, it had more of the feel of an "authentic" city. But still managed to be incredibly beautiful and relaxing. Especially if you did it like we did.

From Rome to Puglia: Beach Town of Polignano a Mare

From Bari, it's just a 20-minute train ride to Polignano a Mare (and a whopping €2.30). And so if Bari, despite its charms, sounds like it's just too much of a city for you, there's no reason not to switch trains and head on to Polignano right then.

With about 20,000 inhabitants, Polignano a Mare feels like a small resort town. Its lovely, whitewashed centro storico perches on cliffs, overlooking the sparkling Adriatic. The town beach (above) is beautiful, the water super-clear, the people friendly.

Of course, you won't be the first person to "discover" Polignano. Crowds of tourists arrive in the summer, particularly August. But it's still rare to hear much English spoken, prices remain relatively low, locals gather on the central piazza at night, and souvenir shops are vastly outnumbered by butcher's and grocer's stores. In other words: While a resort town, Polignano a Mare is a far, far cry from Sorrento, Capri, or Vernazza.

Did I mention it's lovely? 

Quick Trip from Rome to Puglia: Bari

The "heel" of the boot of Italy, Puglia is one of the country's most beautiful regions. It's got it all: miles of gorgeous coastline (and beaches), fantastic food, friendly locals, lovely little towns with medieval historical centers. And, while Italians flood Puglia's beaches in August, during the rest of the year, even Puglia's most resort-like towns are relatively quiet. At least compared to, say, the Cinque Terre or Amalfi coast.

Soon, though, all that will change. Travelers beyond Italy are catching onto Puglia's charms, from, just this year, writers for Travel + Leisure to the "Frugal Traveler" for the New York Times. So I knew I had to go... now.

To really explore the region, you'd need at least a week and a car. My father and I had neither. (We could have rented a car, but Dad wasn't particularly keen on spending his vacation behind the wheel, and since I haven't even been behind a wheel in years, getting my feet wet on back roads in the Italian countryside didn't seem like a great plan).

We had a great three-day trip. We ate well, visited important sites, relaxed at the beach, and explored a couple of truly beautiful towns. So don't let anyone tell you you simply can't do Puglia as a short trip from Rome, by train. If you have to, you can.

First stop: Bari. More posts to come!

Rome's Most Convenient Beach (And It's Pretty)

Romans often say that the beaches near Rome just aren't that nice. Maybe it's the New Englander in me, but after visiting Santa Marinella, I beg to differ.

The beach at Santa Marinella, a seaside comune just outside the city, has a couple of things going for it. First off, it's free. Although that might sound odd if you haven't sunbathed in Italy before, most other beaches cost you. Stretches of sand are covered in cabanas and chairs, the use of which costs some €10 to €15 for the day -- and no, you can't just park yourself on a towel nearby the chairs and hope nobody will notice. (Che brutta figura!).

Secondly, Santa Marinella's beach is convenient. Really convenient. You don't need a car to get there, or to take a train and then a bus, like you do to get to the (admittedly prettier) beach of Sperlonga. Instead, you just hop on the train in Rome from Termini, Ostiense, Trastevere, or San Pietro; 45 minutes and €3.60 land you in Santa Marinella. From there, you can follow the crowds on the 5-minute walk to the beach.