Once again this summer, Rome's 3rd-century Baths of Caracalla are playing host to one of Italy's most famous summer opera series. And, after seeing Swan Lake this week, I can say: It's definitely worth doing.
The enormous baths, which deserve a visit in their own right, are especially atmospheric at night. And so they're a breathtaking (if not always entirely plot-appropriate) backdrop for some of Italy's best-loved operas and ballets. Granted, I found myself more mesmerized by the orchestra and the dancers (particularly the lovely principal ballerina) at Swan Lake, and have resolved to see the Teatro dell'Opera's performances from now on even in the winter, when they're inside. But going, at least once, to see the performances out in the fresh air, with the colored light playing on the ancient ruins, is a treat that shouldn't be missed.
Tchaikovsky's ballet Swan Lake just finished its run, but still to go are Puccini's opera Tosca (July 24, 28, August 3, 5 and 10), a ballet by Roberto Bollo and Friends tomorrow, and Verdi's opera Aida (August 2, 4, 6 and 7). Tickets start at 25 euros, but I'd advise springing for the more-expensive seats -- as to be expected, the "cheap seats" seemed to be the ones all the way on the sides, where it'd be hard to see much at all. My 60-euro seat had a great, central view, which made the extra bucks worth it -- even if the plastic chair still had me squirming with discomfort by the show's end.
You can book your tickets for the Baths of Caracalla performances online, by calling 800 907080
(from abroad, 0039 (0)6 48078400), or at ticket points around the city. If you're a student, under 25, or older 65, with your ID you can get 25 percent off.
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