Revealed Rome

What I Will (...And Won't) Miss About Rome

Hey, Rome, I'm gonna miss you...

No, I'm not moving—but I am headed to the States for the biggest chunk of time since relocating to Italy. In June and July, instead of sweltering in the Rome heat, I'll be sweltering in New York City enjoying the surplus of air-conditioning in Manhattan.

And, of course, I'm already thinking about what I'm going to miss about Rome while I'm gone. Not to mention what I'm excited to experience in New York.

Here's a (partial) list... so far:

What I'll miss about Rome

1. Drinkable wine (that doesn't break the bank). Is it terrible that this is one of the first things I thought of? Yeah, probably. But whenever I go back to the States, I can't get over how the same mediocre bottle of wine that would cost €2 on the shelf, or be cheap "vino della casa," in Italy, somehow gets marked up to $40 or $50 in the U.S. Eesh.

The beach of Santa Marinella, just 45 minutes from Rome

2. Easy beach access. I know, I know, New York has beaches nearby, too. Call me crazy, though, but there's just something about having sparkling-blue, Mediterranean water a 45-minute train ride away that kind of beats Long Island Sound. 

3. The festival on the Tiber. From June to August, Rome's clubs, bars, restaurants, and even shops move down to the river. Stalls stretch along the Tiber for about a mile, and it becomes the go-to place to meet friends for a drink, a dance, or just a lazy stroll. It's such a great atmosphere–and so much better than dancing indoors in a sweaty club.

Summer festival along the Tiber River

4. All things (really) old. I'm obviously a history geek, so whenever I go back to the U.S., I miss being surrounded by 300-year-old palaces and 2,000-year-old ruins. All the more so when I'm walking in the West Village and hear someone say breathlessly, "Ohmygod, that brownstone is 100 years old!". (Me? Jaded? Never...).

New Video: Azaleas in Bloom

Over the next few months, I'm going to be rolling out some new Revealed Rome videos and video posts. In celebration of spring, here's the first—a short-and-sweet look at the azaleas in bloom on Rome's Spanish Steps. Enjoy!

Got a Question About Italy? #RevealRome

I get a lot of questions about Italy. And I try to answer as many of them as I can—either via email, or comments, or through blog posts, my e-book, and, obviously, one-on-one in my consulting sessions.

But everyone likes to mix it up once in a while. So I’m thrilled to announce a new Revealed Rome series: #RevealRome.

It works this way. Just ask a question that you want to see me answer in video format. (And no, it doesn't have to be about Rome!). You can submit your question either by posting it in the comments, on the Revealed Rome Facebook page, on Twitter, or by emailing me at revealedrome@gmail.com. Tag your question #RevealRome. Every two or three weeks, I’ll pick a couple of the questions to answer with a video post.

In the meantime, make sure you subscribe to the Revealed Rome YouTube channel. I'll be unrolling several new video posts in the next few weeks!

Rome Like a Local, For National Geographic Traveller

For the May issue of National Geographic Traveller (that's the U.K. version of the magazine), I was asked to write about how to explore Rome like a local. If you're based in the U.K., check it out to find out more about my favorite restaurants, bars, stores, and neighborhoods in Rome. Not in the U.K.? Stay tuned—I'll update this post with a link when the article goes live online. 

Talking Public Transport on the "How to Tour Italy" Radio Program

Rome's public transport might not sound super-sexy... but it's crucial to know about, at least if you don't want to spend a bundle on taxis. Catch me on Anthony Capozzoli's "How to Tour Italy" radio program (his 100th episode, and my third time on the show!), sharing tips and tricks to getting around Rome by metro, bus, and tram. You can tune into the episode here.

(In previous episodes, we've spoken about some of my favorite underground sites in Rome, and about everything Rome-related, from graffiti to gelato).

Five Most Overrated Things to Do in Rome... And What to Do Instead

Want to know the best things to do in Rome—beyond seeing the Sistine Chapel and the Colosseum? Then put away your guidebook. When they go beyond the main sites, too many books (and magazine articles, and television shows) provide the same tired, touristy list of things to do and places to go in Rome.

The problem: These places aren't only overrun with tourist crowds, but often just don't tick the box they're supposed to.

Here are five of Rome's most overhyped activities—and what to do instead.

1. Instead of having a coffee at Piazza del Popolo...

Don't get me wrong: The large, obelisk-topped Piazza del Popolo is worth a stop. (Don't miss the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo, with its Caravaggio paintings). But it's not where to go for a cup of coffee. The couple of cafes on the piazza are scams expensive (think €4.50 for an espresso) and the service is terrible—which is why you won't see any locals there.

...enjoy a gelato at Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina.

A 5-minute walk from Piazza del Popolo is the lovely little Piazza of San Lorenzo in Lucina. If you must sit and have a coffee or a snack outside... on a pedestrian piazza... in the heart of Rome's historic center (and who can blame you?), this is where to go. Yes, the main cafe here, Ciampini, is also pricey. But the (also jacketed) servers are actually nice, the clientele is mostly made up of upscale Italians, and the gelato is among the best gelato in Rome. 

2. Instead of shopping on Via del Corso...

Oh, yeah, Via del Corso's just great for shopping. If you want to browse the same merchandise from H&M, Gap, Athlete's Foot, and Zara that you'd find back home. No, thank you.

...shop on Via Urbana, Via del Boschetto, and Monti's other side streets.

For shopping, you can't beat the little rione of Monti, located near the Roman forum and Colosseum. It's chock-full of well-priced, trendy boutiques and artisans, and there's only one chain store (an American Apparel, yuck) in the whole district. Whether you're looking for handcrafted jewelry, or vintage clothes, or gorgeous home goods... this little area's got it all. (Don't miss my post on shopping on Monti's Via del Boschetto!).

3. Instead of observing the locals at Piazza Navona...

Seeing Piazza Navona, a gorgeous, Baroque fantasy of a piazza: a must. Going there to "observe the locals": a mistake. Nine out of ten of the folks you see strolling by are tourists. (The one exception is over the holidays, when Roman families head to Piazza Navona's Christmas market). And, yes, that also means that all of the so-called restaurants on the piazza are tourist traps. 

The Island of Ischia: An Easy, Gorgeous, and Cheap Trip from Rome

In less than three hours from Rome, you can be... here!

The island of Ischia, located in the Bay of Naples, offers everything you'd want from a Mediterranean holiday: Stunning views. Bright-blue water. Lush hillsides. Beaches. A castle. 

And it's really, really easy to get to from Rome. Not to mention cheap. (At least if you book in advance).

The largest island in the Bay of Naples, Ischia has a history that stretches back to the Bronze Age. In later years, it was settled by the Greeks, who built its famous castle back in 474 B.C., and then by the Romans. It's now called Castello Aragonese, thanks to being rebuilt in the 15th century by Alphonse of Aragon.

Ischia's famed Castello Aragonese

The castle isn't just picturesque from afar; it's a must-see up close. Several churches are tucked inside, as are walking paths and lush gardens with some of the most beautiful views I've seen in Italy. And that's saying something. (Don't believe me? Check out the video below).

Five Reasons to Love Spring in Rome

In the springtime, you don't even have to go to a park to find flowers in Rome!

There's nothing quite like spring in Rome. And coming from someone in love with this city no matter the season, that should mean something.

In Rome, spring brings that sliver of time (seriously, just a handful of weeks) when it's no longer cold and rainy... but not yet boiling hot. You have to duck tour groups around the Colosseum and Vatican, but it's not quite the human bumper-car game it becomes by June. And as people take to terraces and piazzas—whether kids kicking a soccer ball or friends meeting for a glass of wine—the atmosphere gets cheerier (and the people-watching better!). 

Here are 5 reasons I love the spring in Rome, in pictures.

Spring is the perfect time to stroll the Via Appia

Rome's Via Appia, perfect for a springtime stroll

Walking the Appia Antica is a must-do any day the weather's nice, springtime or not. But there's something about the spring—when the birds are chirping, the grass is practically fluorescent, and tour buses are still scarce—that's especially lovely. Here's more on the Appian Way (with video!).

It's beach weather, but nobody seems to know it yet

One of Rome's beaches in spring: so tranquil!

Rome has some great beaches within an hour from the city. (My favorite is Sperlonga, but for convenience, I often head to Santa Marinella). This time of year, it's more than warm enough to spread out on the sand (even if the water's still a bit chilly!)—and there's still room to do so, too. Come summer, everyone has the beach on the brain... and that becomes a much more difficult prospect. Especially on weekends.

Spring means artichoke season in Rome

Roman artichokes, in season only in the spring

Proper, Roman artichokes—carciofi romaneschi—grow only from February to May. The rest of the year, the artichokes you see on menus in Rome are imposters aren't local, Roman artichokes, but from elsewhere in Italy or France. Eat 'em alla giudia (fried) or alla romana (braised with olive oil, garlic, and herbs).